Chisel tweaking

I have some Shop Fox brand chisels I bought a while back from Grizzly.  They appear to be identical to the ones Paul Sellers talks about buying from Aldi stores in the U.K.   Although I paid more than Paul did, these were still quite reasonable.  Tonight I decided to give one of the handles the Paul Sellers treatment to make them look a little nicer.

I removed the handle by driving it off with a steel pin-punch, which pretty much destroyed the thin steel ferrule.

I tried several methods to hold the handle.  Holding it between bench dogs in the tail vise was the winner.  Raising the dogs above the surface of the bench allowed me to work the top and a little around the sides with a spokeshave.  Rotate and repeat.

I used a card scraper to remove the painted on label and get rid of the machine marks and most of the old finish.  Then I followed up with a file and sandpaper to blend and smooth everything.

The refined shape along side the original.

Machine marks were pretty evident before scraping.

This last photo shows the handle with two coats of amber shellac.  I think I'll spray on a couple coats of clear shellac just to build up the finish a little more.  I ordered brass ferrules from Lee Valley so I'll wait until they arrive to shape the rest of the handles.

I'm happy with the results, I think it looks a lot less clunky with the new tapered shape.  The darker color is a winner as well.

Bench Hooks Conlusion

Now that I had dowel stock, I could finish up my bench hooks.  I laid out the dowel locations on the narrow hook, drilled 3/8 -inch through holes, and glued in three dowels.

Dowels before final trimming.

I laid out seven dowel locations on the mitre hook to make sure nothing moves after I cut through the fence.

Finished Bench Hooks.

After trimming all the dowels and planing or sanding them flush, I cut the 45-degree slots in the mitre hook and this project is finished.

What prompted this flurry of activity is that I finally put a shelf under my workbench so I could have my planes close at hand.  I added a second shelf about 10 inches above the first to hold my shooting board and now my bench hooks, and apparently some chisels.

A handy and useful space now.

Making Dowels

I needed some dowels to finish up my bench hooks.  I have a few lumber yard/hardware store dowels in different sizes but they are not very round or very accurately sized.  I also don't know what species of wood they are made from.

Making your own dowels is great if you want to match them with the wood in your project.  In the past I have turned them on the lathe.  It works but it's slow going sneaking up on the correct size and it's easy to screw them up.

I considered ordering a dowel plate from Lie-Nielson or Lee Valley but they are kind of pricey and, since you drive the wood through them with a hammer, are only good for making relatively short dowels.  I had previously seen some DIY dowel makers online and decided to spend some time researching the matter.  There were a number of different takes that were interesting but the one that Izzy Swan made seemed like the best of everything.  It seemed easy to build and could cut long dowels in just about any type of wood species.

I had a piece of 3/8-inch thick 1018 cold rolled steel that was the perfect size for this.  I laid it out for every common size dowel that I should ever need and one or two I may never need.

Beginnings of a dowel maker.

I scribed layout lines where I would drill my holes then marked them with a center punch and drilled through with an 1/8-inch bit.  Then I proceeded to drill the actual sizes from 3/16 to 1/2 in 1/16-inch increments.  I drilled the smaller holes at about 940 RPM and the larger ones at 380 RPM.

Dremel style cut off wheels.

I had two different diameter cut off wheels.  I used the smaller one on the three smallest holes and the large one on the rest.  I cut slots across the holes every 45-degrees to create kind of a star pattern between a 1/16 and 1/8-inch deep at the edge of the holes tapering to nothing as it led away from the hole.

Star pattern on three of the holes.

I had some small strips of birch and decided to try it in the 3/8 hole.  I ripped the material on the table saw to near 3/8 square.  I sharpened one end on the disc sander so it would start in the plate and roughly rounded the other end to fit in my drill.  I started running it through the plate but it was going really slow and starting to burn the wood.  Then I recalled Izzy saying that the material needed to be very close to final size for this to work well.  I ran the blank through the 1/2-inch then the 7/16-inch holes to get it closer to size.  It went through both of them fairly easily since it was really just taking off the corners.  It was a little more difficult in the 3/8 hole since it was taking a full round cut but it went through better than before.

I thought I would try modifying the 3/8 hole by filing some clearance angle on the back of the slots.  I used a diamond needle file for that.  I really couldn't tell much difference in the way it cut compared to before so I abandoned the idea.

Clearance angle filed in lower right hole.

  After making and measuring the first dowel, I could see that they were just a few thousands oversize.  A little sanding had them down to size.  They were a perfect fit in a hole drilled with the bit I had used to make the dowel plate.  Unfortunately, I sometimes use Forstner bits and mine seem to drill about .008 to .010 oversize.  To allow for this, I turned the plate over and re-drilled the holes 1/64-inch oversize.  Now I can just sand the dowels to fit whichever drill I happen to be using for a project.  I didn't have a 33/64 drill so the 1/2-inch hole is not oversize.

Finished plate and some sample birch dowels.

This project was definitely a success.  After a little sanding, these dowels look as good or better than anything I can buy and in any wood species I want.

Bench Hooks

I can't count the number of times I've tried to cut some small piece of stock with a handsaw only to chase it all over the bench because I hadn't taken the time to build a simple bench hook.  This weekend I decided to finally break down and build a pair of them.  I think a pair will be handy when working on long stock.  I can spread them apart and support the longer pieces.

'50s vintage plywood and a strip of hard maple

I saved all of the old plywood doors from my kitchen cabinets.  This is not that crappy, made in China, home center plywood.  No, this is 1958 cabinet grade birch veneer plywood.  Nice and flat with no internal voids.  The inner cores appear to be some type of fir.  Nice and flat!

I scraped and sanded the varnish off of both sides of the door and cut it to 12 x 18 inches.  I came up with a narrow strip of hard maple for the fence.  I decided that I would like to have a fence that was tall enough to double as a mitre box so I would need to laminate two pieces.

Gluing up the fence.

Gluing the fence to the base.

I glued the fence and the bottom cleat to the plywood base.  Then decided how wide I wanted my two bench hooks to be.  I settled on 10 and 8 inches wide.  The narrower of the two has a short fence for square cuts.  I made the other a little wider for cutting mitres.

Knife lines for the mitre slots.

I marked out the 45 degree lines for the mitre slots but decided I should do something more to attach the fence than just glue before I cut it into three pieces.  Rather than using screws, I'll use dowels to reinforce the fence attachment.  Now I need to build something to make dowels!  I'll post about that tomorrow.

Kitchen Drawers

Well, I haven't posted in a while.  Started a kitchen remodel this spring and didn't think demolition and drywall were really appropriate subjects for my blog.  However, cabinet work is commencing and that does fit into the type of things I like to post.

I'm reusing my existing cabinet boxes and converting the lowers to drawers.  The original 1958 vintage cabinets were European style without face frames.  Instead of 35mm cup style hinges, which were probably not available at the time, the builders used knife hinges on birch plywood doors.  A very clean, modern look indeed.  This is the only photo I had on the SD card, I left the iPad at work.  You can get an idea of what it looked like from the lower cabinets.

I will be going with painted, shaker style paneled doors and drawer fronts.  I thought soft maple would look nice for the drawer boxes rather than pine or poplar, but my hardwood dealer didn't have any so I came home with birch instead.  Should have gone with poplar!  I tried to select boards that would give me the maximum number of parts with a minimum of waste.  First, there is a lot of reversing grain in this stuff.  Not cool when using hand planes.  Second, it's a lot harder than I thought it would be.  

I decided that this was the opportunity of a lifetime.  When else would I have a chance to practice hand-cut dovetails on 20 drawers.  I had the good sense to have the lumber yard plane it down to 5/8" so I wouldn't destroy my little lunchbox planer.  The finished thickness is 1/2".  I brought home enough to build the ten drawers for the lower cabinets.  I didn't really have room in the shop to store more than that.  I bought poplar for the parts that will be painted.

I decided to build the bottom row of drawers first.  These would be nine inches deep and have five tails.  On the first drawer, I started with a sharp one-inch wide chisel.  I had to stop and sharpen it three more times during the process.  Did I mention this stuff is hard?  In spite of that, everything went fairly well.  There were no Kodak moments on drawer number one but my dovetails did show substantial improvement with each corner of the drawer.

Drawer number two went along a little better but still not magazine cover quality.  However, both boxes went together tight, square, and were mechanically sound.  

Drawer number three is where I started to hit my stride.  All of the pictures in this post are of number three.  None of these joints went together straight off of the saw, there was a fair bit of paring and fitting but they fit nice!

There is still plenty of room for improvement and I don't know that I will get a much better fit than these but I might reach a point where there is less paring involved.  Considering the hardness of the wood and that its fibers don't compress like my pine practice material (I was able to get dovetails to fit straight off of the saw in pine)  I am really pleased with the results.  Only 17 more to go.  I might be pretty good at this by then.

Website lost photos

A while back someone emailed to tell me that many of the photos were missing from my website.  I think I still have all of them on my computer but it will be a very time consuming affair to locate them and get them back in the right places.  I'm not sure when or if I will find the time to do this.  It is frustrating to have moved to Google sites and have my photos disappear like that.  I guess it would be a good time to start thinking about better organizing my files in the future.

Sorry for any inconvenience this may cause.

16-inch Tenon Saw

It's been some time since I put up my last post.  I didn't spend much time in the shop over the winter (or the spring) but I did manage to complete another saw.  I cut a couple of practice tenons with it and was pleased with the way it cut and followed a line.

This one is a 16-inch tenon/sash saw with 10 ppi filed rip.  It has 3-1/2 inches of plate under the back at the toe and about 3-13/16 at the heel.  The handle is black walnut with home made steel bolts and split nuts.  The back is folded steel like my dovetail saw only this one is about 7/8 inch tall after folding.

Shiny!

The last of the walnut from a donated 5/4 plank.

Sunflower engraved on the large bolt.

Clocking the nuts.